Saturday, July 6, 2013
Just in case...
The subway system in Seoul is great. Clean, fast, user-friendly. It's a little disconcerting seeing these "self-contained breathing apparatus" and gas mask kiosks. It's better to have it and not need it ...
DMZ.
Today was our trip to the DMZ. So many things happened so fast, and it was such an exhilarating yet nerve-wracking experience, but I'll do my best to capture the day here.
We left the hotel around 10:00 with a guide from the tour company taking us to the DMZ. He inspected our clothing to be sure we passed inspection. The rules for what to wear are pretty strict because in the past the North has used photos of visitors as propaganda. We joked that we were in a "fashion-free zone" for the day.
We had to surrender our passports for inspection which made us all a little nervous. The bus took us to the Lotte hotel where guide #1 disappeared, and guide #2 joined us. The DMZ is about a 1.5 hour drive from Seoul. We stopped for lunch in Munsan city, where we had beef bulgoggi. It is a delicious meal of thin strips of beef, boiled in a tasy broth with vegetables. It was also my last meal with kimchi and chopsticks.
We boarded the bus and entered the area of South Korea where we got our first glimse of the tense situation with the North. There were anti-tank barriers - concrete walls loaded with dynamite that can be detonated to block the advance of tanks.
We made a quick stop at the Freedom Bridge, Imjingak. This is as far north as civilian South Koreans can travel. It was set up as a place where South Koreans can go to pay respect to families who are in the North. There is a bridge containing ribbons of prayer messages, and a monument to a railroad that South Korea hopes will be built, allowing South Korea to make rail connections to China and Russia via North Korea.
Next, on to the Civilian Control Area. We were not allowed to take pictures here until our guides allowed it. In the Civilian Control area we saw Taesong, the so-called "Peace Village." It is the only South Korean village within the DMZ. Only those with an ancestral connection dating to before the war can live there. Women can marry into the community, but men cannot. That's because male members of the village are exempt from military service, and they don't want men marrying in as a way to avoid their 2 years of compulsory service. Villagers are also exempt from taxes, but they are under strict curfews. They tend to rice fields withinin the United Nations Command Security Battalion Joint Security Area (JSA) and in general are more well-off than the average South Korean.
We were checked at "Checkpoint 1" by a South Korean soldier. We learned that the "ROK" (Republic of Korea) soldiers in the JSA are taller and smarter than the average soldier. They are also black belts in Tae Kwon Do.
Next, we were brought to Checkpoint 2 and were met by a US soldier who was our guide for the rest of the trip. We were advised to put our passports in our pockets, and bring only our camera - no bags or anything else. We went to an auditorium and were briefed by another US soldier, then got on a bus operated by the JSA.
Then, it started getting real. We passed mine fields, and soon were in sight of North Korean observation towers. We arrived at the UN command headquarters, walked up a flight of stairs and my heart stopped. Right in front of me were the iconic blue buildings, and the North Korean headquarters directly behind. Right away a North Korean soldier emerged from the building and trained his binoculars on us. Soon, 2 others came out. We had been reminded over and over not to make any gestures towards the North, or attempt to communicate in any way.
We were allowed into Building 2, which is where the high-level negotiations take place. I was near the front of the line and took my place along the far side of the negotiations table. When we were all in the building, Sgt. Guidry (our guide) informed us that those of us on the far side of the room were in North Korean territory. I'm not sure how that works, because a ROK soldier was there too.
We could get our pictures taken next to this soldier. He was so still, in his ready-to-fight Tae Kwan Do stance, I'm still not convinced he wasn't a statue. Looking out the window, North Korean soldiers marched past, probably not more than 20 feet from where I was standing. Once we all had our pictures taken inside the building, we went back out. We could take whatever pictures we wanted towards the North, we were not allowed to take any pictures towards the South.
Next, back on the bus to "Checkpoint 3", which is an area surrounded on 3 sides by North Korean territory. It was a very hot and hazy day, but we could make out North Korea's "Propaganda Village" from there. A flagpole of 160 m flies a 600 pound flag before a village that is basically a movie set. It's designed to make it look as though life is great in the North, but it's all a facade.
Finally, we saw "Checkpoint 4" site of the "Axe Murder Incident" in 1976. Two American soldiers - Captain Boniface and Lieutenant Barrett were hacked to death while attempting to trim a poplar tree that obstructed their position. A small plaque now marks the spot where the tree once stood. "Checkpoint 4" is also the site of the "Bridge of No Return", formerly used for prisoner exchanges.
Now, the tour was over. We were deposited a the gift shop and encouraged to spend freely. It was such a strange experience. While the checkpoints, warnings, and proximity to North Korea made it seem scary, it really wasn't. Driving around with busloads of other Americans snapping pictures freely, I wonder what kind of propaganda instruments we were.
We left the hotel around 10:00 with a guide from the tour company taking us to the DMZ. He inspected our clothing to be sure we passed inspection. The rules for what to wear are pretty strict because in the past the North has used photos of visitors as propaganda. We joked that we were in a "fashion-free zone" for the day.
We had to surrender our passports for inspection which made us all a little nervous. The bus took us to the Lotte hotel where guide #1 disappeared, and guide #2 joined us. The DMZ is about a 1.5 hour drive from Seoul. We stopped for lunch in Munsan city, where we had beef bulgoggi. It is a delicious meal of thin strips of beef, boiled in a tasy broth with vegetables. It was also my last meal with kimchi and chopsticks.
We boarded the bus and entered the area of South Korea where we got our first glimse of the tense situation with the North. There were anti-tank barriers - concrete walls loaded with dynamite that can be detonated to block the advance of tanks.
We made a quick stop at the Freedom Bridge, Imjingak. This is as far north as civilian South Koreans can travel. It was set up as a place where South Koreans can go to pay respect to families who are in the North. There is a bridge containing ribbons of prayer messages, and a monument to a railroad that South Korea hopes will be built, allowing South Korea to make rail connections to China and Russia via North Korea.
Next, on to the Civilian Control Area. We were not allowed to take pictures here until our guides allowed it. In the Civilian Control area we saw Taesong, the so-called "Peace Village." It is the only South Korean village within the DMZ. Only those with an ancestral connection dating to before the war can live there. Women can marry into the community, but men cannot. That's because male members of the village are exempt from military service, and they don't want men marrying in as a way to avoid their 2 years of compulsory service. Villagers are also exempt from taxes, but they are under strict curfews. They tend to rice fields withinin the United Nations Command Security Battalion Joint Security Area (JSA) and in general are more well-off than the average South Korean.
We were checked at "Checkpoint 1" by a South Korean soldier. We learned that the "ROK" (Republic of Korea) soldiers in the JSA are taller and smarter than the average soldier. They are also black belts in Tae Kwon Do.
Next, we were brought to Checkpoint 2 and were met by a US soldier who was our guide for the rest of the trip. We were advised to put our passports in our pockets, and bring only our camera - no bags or anything else. We went to an auditorium and were briefed by another US soldier, then got on a bus operated by the JSA.
Then, it started getting real. We passed mine fields, and soon were in sight of North Korean observation towers. We arrived at the UN command headquarters, walked up a flight of stairs and my heart stopped. Right in front of me were the iconic blue buildings, and the North Korean headquarters directly behind. Right away a North Korean soldier emerged from the building and trained his binoculars on us. Soon, 2 others came out. We had been reminded over and over not to make any gestures towards the North, or attempt to communicate in any way.
We were allowed into Building 2, which is where the high-level negotiations take place. I was near the front of the line and took my place along the far side of the negotiations table. When we were all in the building, Sgt. Guidry (our guide) informed us that those of us on the far side of the room were in North Korean territory. I'm not sure how that works, because a ROK soldier was there too.
We could get our pictures taken next to this soldier. He was so still, in his ready-to-fight Tae Kwan Do stance, I'm still not convinced he wasn't a statue. Looking out the window, North Korean soldiers marched past, probably not more than 20 feet from where I was standing. Once we all had our pictures taken inside the building, we went back out. We could take whatever pictures we wanted towards the North, we were not allowed to take any pictures towards the South.
Next, back on the bus to "Checkpoint 3", which is an area surrounded on 3 sides by North Korean territory. It was a very hot and hazy day, but we could make out North Korea's "Propaganda Village" from there. A flagpole of 160 m flies a 600 pound flag before a village that is basically a movie set. It's designed to make it look as though life is great in the North, but it's all a facade.
Finally, we saw "Checkpoint 4" site of the "Axe Murder Incident" in 1976. Two American soldiers - Captain Boniface and Lieutenant Barrett were hacked to death while attempting to trim a poplar tree that obstructed their position. A small plaque now marks the spot where the tree once stood. "Checkpoint 4" is also the site of the "Bridge of No Return", formerly used for prisoner exchanges.
Now, the tour was over. We were deposited a the gift shop and encouraged to spend freely. It was such a strange experience. While the checkpoints, warnings, and proximity to North Korea made it seem scary, it really wasn't. Driving around with busloads of other Americans snapping pictures freely, I wonder what kind of propaganda instruments we were.
Friday, July 5, 2013
Friday July 5
We had nothing scheduled for us until noon today, I think to give everyone some choices to do things in Seoul that hadn't been on the official agenda, or to just catch up on sleep after the field trip. I went to the Korean War Memorial, a museum, with about 10 others. We plotted our subway route, until the hotel concierge told us it was much cheaper and easier to take a cab. He was right - it was easy to get 3 cabs right in front of the hotel, it was an 8 minute ride, and cost us each about $1.
The Korean War is purposely not covered much as part of the official Fellowship agenda. The organizers assume (correctly, I think) that currently the Korean War is the only aspect of Korea covered in our curriculums. They want us to consider all the other aspects of Korea's culture and history too.
We had only about 1.5 hours at the museum so we stayed only in the 2 exhibits focused on the Korean War. The museum also has exhibits on warfare covering the 5,000 years of Korea's history. We got there before the museum opened and were able to tour the outdoor sculptures, statues, and airplanes from the Korean War.
One especialy moving statue shows brothers who were caught on oppposite sides of the division finally re-uniting. The statue is on top of a dome constructed with granite from all over Korea, with a break symbolizing the division of the peninsula. Inside the dome is a tribute to all of the nations who contributed forces to the UN role in Korea: the US, Turkey, Australia, Thailand, New Zealand, UK, Ethiopia, South Africa, Philippines, Greece, Canada, Colombia, Belgium, Netherlands, and Luxembourg.
Inside, the museum covered the events from the North's surprise invasion of the South in June, 1950, to the US/UN intervention. With the US/UN intervention the South eventually recovered all of the territory that had been lost to the North, pushing North Korea's forces back to the 38th parallel. It is hard to believe that 63 years to the day before our visit North Korean tanks had been rolling through Seoul, and so many citizens of South Korea had become refugees from this conflict. Another reminder of South Korea's amazing transformation. It is also hard to believe that this conflict is still not officially over. That will become even clearer tomorrow on our visit to the DMZ. There is no sense of glory from this conflict, instead only regret at how Korea has been divided for so long.
At every opportunity the educators on this trip have asked about the potential for re-unification. All the Koreans that we have asked answer that Korea is one nation, and they look forward to the day that they are represented as one again. The experts also acknowledge that despite this desire for unification it may be many years away and it will be a difficult transition. Much more difficult than Germany's. The further the North falls behind the South, the more difficult it will be.
Tomorrow we go to the DMZ. Our Korean guides are not allowed to go with us, and the older Korean woman who has organized this trip for 25 years said she has no desire to go as she does not want to be reminded of the war and the division.
We learned yesterday that North Korea and South Korea have scheduled low-level talks about Kaesong, a shared industrial park that has been closed since April. The talks are scheduled to take place in North Korea's portion of Panmunjom, the "peace village" at the border, right when we are scheduled to be there. It's possible these talks will mean we won't have access to certain areas of the DMZ or that we may be turned away entirely. While this would be disappointing, if it means a step in the reconciliation of Korea it's a pretty small price to pay.
The Korean War is purposely not covered much as part of the official Fellowship agenda. The organizers assume (correctly, I think) that currently the Korean War is the only aspect of Korea covered in our curriculums. They want us to consider all the other aspects of Korea's culture and history too.
We had only about 1.5 hours at the museum so we stayed only in the 2 exhibits focused on the Korean War. The museum also has exhibits on warfare covering the 5,000 years of Korea's history. We got there before the museum opened and were able to tour the outdoor sculptures, statues, and airplanes from the Korean War.
One especialy moving statue shows brothers who were caught on oppposite sides of the division finally re-uniting. The statue is on top of a dome constructed with granite from all over Korea, with a break symbolizing the division of the peninsula. Inside the dome is a tribute to all of the nations who contributed forces to the UN role in Korea: the US, Turkey, Australia, Thailand, New Zealand, UK, Ethiopia, South Africa, Philippines, Greece, Canada, Colombia, Belgium, Netherlands, and Luxembourg.
Inside, the museum covered the events from the North's surprise invasion of the South in June, 1950, to the US/UN intervention. With the US/UN intervention the South eventually recovered all of the territory that had been lost to the North, pushing North Korea's forces back to the 38th parallel. It is hard to believe that 63 years to the day before our visit North Korean tanks had been rolling through Seoul, and so many citizens of South Korea had become refugees from this conflict. Another reminder of South Korea's amazing transformation. It is also hard to believe that this conflict is still not officially over. That will become even clearer tomorrow on our visit to the DMZ. There is no sense of glory from this conflict, instead only regret at how Korea has been divided for so long.
At every opportunity the educators on this trip have asked about the potential for re-unification. All the Koreans that we have asked answer that Korea is one nation, and they look forward to the day that they are represented as one again. The experts also acknowledge that despite this desire for unification it may be many years away and it will be a difficult transition. Much more difficult than Germany's. The further the North falls behind the South, the more difficult it will be.
Tomorrow we go to the DMZ. Our Korean guides are not allowed to go with us, and the older Korean woman who has organized this trip for 25 years said she has no desire to go as she does not want to be reminded of the war and the division.
We learned yesterday that North Korea and South Korea have scheduled low-level talks about Kaesong, a shared industrial park that has been closed since April. The talks are scheduled to take place in North Korea's portion of Panmunjom, the "peace village" at the border, right when we are scheduled to be there. It's possible these talks will mean we won't have access to certain areas of the DMZ or that we may be turned away entirely. While this would be disappointing, if it means a step in the reconciliation of Korea it's a pretty small price to pay.
Thursday, July 4, 2013
Thursday July 4
The Fourth of July came and went with barely a second thought. We spent the night of the 3rd in Daegu, Korea's 3rd largest city after Seoul and Busan. Daegu is known for 3 things: beautiful women (many Miss Korea winners have come from Daegu), apples, and bad weather. We were there such a short time, I didn't see evidence of any of this.
We had an early departure from the hotel and headed for the Haeinsa Temple. This temple is up a winding mountain road and is a very active place. There were monks walking around performing their duties, and worshipers praying and chanting.
While we were there 3 monks also performed a drumming ceremony that occurs a few times a day. The 3 men took turns drumming throughout the 20 minutes. The monsoons arrived during this ceremony. July is the monsoon season in Korea, and we got our first taste of it at the end of the ceremony. The skies suddenly opened and a torrential rain came down. There were several roof overhangs where we could take cover. When they were finished, the monks grabbed their umbrellas and hurried off.
For lunch we ate in the temple "cafeteria". Non- Buddhists, lay Buddhists, and monks all ate separately. The space was set up like a mess hall, with long tables and metal bowls. The big difference was the quiet. There was no talking allowed, so the only noise came from the dishwashing crew and the metal chopsticks on the metal bowls. No photos were allowed in the cafeteria.
Another rule was that you had to eat everything in your bowl. When we entered the cafeteria we each picked up a bowl already filled with cold green noodles. It was about twice as much noodle as I would have served myself, but a rule is a rule and I was committed to eat it all. You could then add assorted vegetables and a black bean sauce to the bowl. It was a very good, simple meal.
After wandering the temple grounds we got on the bus for the 4.5 hour drive back to Seoul.
We had an early departure from the hotel and headed for the Haeinsa Temple. This temple is up a winding mountain road and is a very active place. There were monks walking around performing their duties, and worshipers praying and chanting.
While we were there 3 monks also performed a drumming ceremony that occurs a few times a day. The 3 men took turns drumming throughout the 20 minutes. The monsoons arrived during this ceremony. July is the monsoon season in Korea, and we got our first taste of it at the end of the ceremony. The skies suddenly opened and a torrential rain came down. There were several roof overhangs where we could take cover. When they were finished, the monks grabbed their umbrellas and hurried off.
For lunch we ate in the temple "cafeteria". Non- Buddhists, lay Buddhists, and monks all ate separately. The space was set up like a mess hall, with long tables and metal bowls. The big difference was the quiet. There was no talking allowed, so the only noise came from the dishwashing crew and the metal chopsticks on the metal bowls. No photos were allowed in the cafeteria.
Another rule was that you had to eat everything in your bowl. When we entered the cafeteria we each picked up a bowl already filled with cold green noodles. It was about twice as much noodle as I would have served myself, but a rule is a rule and I was committed to eat it all. You could then add assorted vegetables and a black bean sauce to the bowl. It was a very good, simple meal.
After wandering the temple grounds we got on the bus for the 4.5 hour drive back to Seoul.
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
Wednesday July 3
Today was all about Confucian virtue and education. We started the day at Oksan Seowon, a traditional Confucian Academy. We had to walk down a wet, slippery stone stairway the walk across a stream on a wooden board with no handrails. Once across we came into a beautiful academy, looking out over a misty green mountain. It was a place of serenity, thought, and learning.
We took off our shoes and settled ourselves onto the floor of this learning place. Professor Peterson then talked for over an hour about the exams that students would take for admission to the civil service, which were the most prestigious positions.
Our next stop was Yangdong village which is also a UNESCO site. This cultural village contains historic buildings and a glance at what village life was like in the past, but it is also a place where people live today.
I think every day has felt hotter and more humid than the day before, and today was no exception. It was raining we left Kyungju, and I thought for sure we would see the monsoon. But the sun was shining and steaming us by the time we were in Yangdong. The village is built on steep hills and we walked up them all.
As a sign of respect, the village elder hosted us. He is only in his thirties but he became the clan leader at age 29 when his father died young. His main duties are in hosting traditional ceremonies, and greeting visitors. Although it seemed as though 40 Americans might be imposing on him on a day when he was also preparing for an important ceremony to be held that evening, the Professor explained that, to him, "There is nothing more pleasurable than greeting guests who have traveled far." Another Confucian virtue. We were given the opportunity to sit with him and ask questions for awhile.
These virtues are apparent in Korean culture today, from the emphasis on studying hard for exams to graciously welcoming guests. While some of these traditions may seem anachronistic there is something to be said for respecting tradition. While I am here, I will gladly take off my shoes despite my stinky feet, sit on the floor when I'd rather have a chair, cross my legs so my feet don't point at an elder when I'd rather stretch them out, and clean my plate despite the unfamiliar food.
We took off our shoes and settled ourselves onto the floor of this learning place. Professor Peterson then talked for over an hour about the exams that students would take for admission to the civil service, which were the most prestigious positions.
Our next stop was Yangdong village which is also a UNESCO site. This cultural village contains historic buildings and a glance at what village life was like in the past, but it is also a place where people live today.
I think every day has felt hotter and more humid than the day before, and today was no exception. It was raining we left Kyungju, and I thought for sure we would see the monsoon. But the sun was shining and steaming us by the time we were in Yangdong. The village is built on steep hills and we walked up them all.
As a sign of respect, the village elder hosted us. He is only in his thirties but he became the clan leader at age 29 when his father died young. His main duties are in hosting traditional ceremonies, and greeting visitors. Although it seemed as though 40 Americans might be imposing on him on a day when he was also preparing for an important ceremony to be held that evening, the Professor explained that, to him, "There is nothing more pleasurable than greeting guests who have traveled far." Another Confucian virtue. We were given the opportunity to sit with him and ask questions for awhile.
These virtues are apparent in Korean culture today, from the emphasis on studying hard for exams to graciously welcoming guests. While some of these traditions may seem anachronistic there is something to be said for respecting tradition. While I am here, I will gladly take off my shoes despite my stinky feet, sit on the floor when I'd rather have a chair, cross my legs so my feet don't point at an elder when I'd rather stretch them out, and clean my plate despite the unfamiliar food.
Korean Sijo
Literature teachers, consider the sijo in addition to the haiku as a form of poetry you introduce to your students. The sijo is a Korean poem, 3 lines long, each line with 4 sections.
Here is one of the most well-known, expressing Confucian virtues. It was written by Chong Mong-ju just before his execution for refusing to betray his king.
Though I die, and die again; though I die one hundred deaths;
Long after my bones have turned to dust; whether my soul exists or not;
My one red heart, forever and always loyal to my lord, will never fade away.
이몸이 죽고 죽어 일 백번 고쳐 죽어
백골이 진토되어 넋이라도 있고 없고
님 향한 일편단심이야 가실 줄이 있으랴.
Here is one of the most well-known, expressing Confucian virtues. It was written by Chong Mong-ju just before his execution for refusing to betray his king.
Though I die, and die again; though I die one hundred deaths;
Long after my bones have turned to dust; whether my soul exists or not;
My one red heart, forever and always loyal to my lord, will never fade away.
이몸이 죽고 죽어 일 백번 고쳐 죽어
백골이 진토되어 넋이라도 있고 없고
님 향한 일편단심이야 가실 줄이 있으랴.
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Tuesday July 2
After a very restful night at the Kyungju Ramada (Lamada), I woke up at 5:30 and spent a long time sifting through notes and photos. We had a relatively late start this morning, leaving the hotel at 9:00, bound for Pohang City and the POSCO steel company.
I would have never imagined that a visit to a steel company could be so exciting, but it was such an eye-opener into Korean culture and how this nation has undergone such a dramatic transformation in one generation. My only regret is that we could take pictures only in the company museum. For the rest of the tour our cameras and other devices were sealed in bags and our sternly efficient company minders were on sharp lookout for any suspected industrial espionage.
We started in the company museum, which admittedly contained a lot of PR and corporate propaganda. It was an inspiring story nonetheless, summed up by the slogan that appared on a huge sign across the 6 lane plant entrance (sorry, no photos) "Resources are limited. Creativity is unlimited." This is an apt metaphor for Korea's economic development as a whole. Korea lacked the iron and coal necessary for steel production, but by investing in its human capital and starting with the dream of this company in 1945, they have developed into a global economic power.
POSCO is now among the top 5 global steel producers. Another motto is "We move the world in silence." Meaning, everyone knows the name of the end product - Hyundai, Kia, Samsung, LG, etc - but few know who made the steel to begin with.
The museum had an impressive scale model of its plants (no pictures!) at Pohang and Gwangyang, built on land reclaimed from the sea. Both plants contain import and export ports, rail yards, worker dormitories, and stadiums for their professional soccer teams. In Korea, professional sports teams are sponsored by corporations, and we saw the stadium for the Pohang Steelers at POSCO.
Most exciting was driving around the factory. At one point our bus drove past a truck carrying a fresh steel slab, and we could feel the blast of heat through the bus. It was intense. We also got to do a brisk walk through a mill. We walked about 300 yards on a catwalk above the machinery that mills a steel plate from about a 25 cm thickness to 1.2 mm. This will likely be used in home appliances. It was loud and incredibly hot (well over 100°).
Along with the school visit, this was a unique and memorable stop so far on this trip.
The rest of the day: tombs, burial mounds, museums, buffet lunch, kalbi (beef rib) dinner, seminar until 10:00. Zzzzzz ...
I would have never imagined that a visit to a steel company could be so exciting, but it was such an eye-opener into Korean culture and how this nation has undergone such a dramatic transformation in one generation. My only regret is that we could take pictures only in the company museum. For the rest of the tour our cameras and other devices were sealed in bags and our sternly efficient company minders were on sharp lookout for any suspected industrial espionage.
We started in the company museum, which admittedly contained a lot of PR and corporate propaganda. It was an inspiring story nonetheless, summed up by the slogan that appared on a huge sign across the 6 lane plant entrance (sorry, no photos) "Resources are limited. Creativity is unlimited." This is an apt metaphor for Korea's economic development as a whole. Korea lacked the iron and coal necessary for steel production, but by investing in its human capital and starting with the dream of this company in 1945, they have developed into a global economic power.
POSCO is now among the top 5 global steel producers. Another motto is "We move the world in silence." Meaning, everyone knows the name of the end product - Hyundai, Kia, Samsung, LG, etc - but few know who made the steel to begin with.
The museum had an impressive scale model of its plants (no pictures!) at Pohang and Gwangyang, built on land reclaimed from the sea. Both plants contain import and export ports, rail yards, worker dormitories, and stadiums for their professional soccer teams. In Korea, professional sports teams are sponsored by corporations, and we saw the stadium for the Pohang Steelers at POSCO.
Most exciting was driving around the factory. At one point our bus drove past a truck carrying a fresh steel slab, and we could feel the blast of heat through the bus. It was intense. We also got to do a brisk walk through a mill. We walked about 300 yards on a catwalk above the machinery that mills a steel plate from about a 25 cm thickness to 1.2 mm. This will likely be used in home appliances. It was loud and incredibly hot (well over 100°).
Along with the school visit, this was a unique and memorable stop so far on this trip.
The rest of the day: tombs, burial mounds, museums, buffet lunch, kalbi (beef rib) dinner, seminar until 10:00. Zzzzzz ...
Monday, July 1, 2013
On Language ...
We have been learning basic language, but I haven't retained much beyond "Hello" (an nyong ha se yo) and "Thank you" (kam sam ni da).
There are many sounds that exist in the Korean language that sound the same to our American ears, but are very different to a Korean. The reverse is true as well. For example, Koreans don't hear the difference between our "r" sound and "l" sound. Which explains why rice may be pronounced "lice", and our tour guide told us we were staying at a Lamada hotel, when it was actually the Ramada. There are 2 cities very near each other, Chungju and Cheongju. They both sound the same to me, and I have no idea which one we actually stayed in.
Also, the "Romanization" of Korean words can be done in different ways. One way of writing a Korean word is done to make it easier for a Korean. The other way is to make it easier for an English speaker to recognize. This explains why on our itinerary we are staying in Kyungju, but my Lonely Planet book calls it Gyeongju.
It's all clear as mud.
There are many sounds that exist in the Korean language that sound the same to our American ears, but are very different to a Korean. The reverse is true as well. For example, Koreans don't hear the difference between our "r" sound and "l" sound. Which explains why rice may be pronounced "lice", and our tour guide told us we were staying at a Lamada hotel, when it was actually the Ramada. There are 2 cities very near each other, Chungju and Cheongju. They both sound the same to me, and I have no idea which one we actually stayed in.
Also, the "Romanization" of Korean words can be done in different ways. One way of writing a Korean word is done to make it easier for a Korean. The other way is to make it easier for an English speaker to recognize. This explains why on our itinerary we are staying in Kyungju, but my Lonely Planet book calls it Gyeongju.
It's all clear as mud.
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